tubing

I be in a very cold climate and have a bathroom with Broan fag fan blowing thru 4 inch plastic & wire tubing accross the attic to a evince in the gable wall. The tubing is heavy with ice in the winter and some melt wet runs back to the fan and wets the adjacent ceiling drywall. Right now the tubing goes up and down as it passes over the attic truss members and the ice or water stays in the low spots. I've read that the tubing should be inclined and straight. Won't all that condensate be trying to run back to the fan? There's probably 2 or 3 gallons of ice involved. Is there a way of installing vent tubing to deal with the condensate? Insulate the duct that is in cold areas so the warm moist air get all the way out the duct before condensing. Additional Off DIY Site Links to Travel. Leisure measure and Vacationing Adventures DoItYourself com® founded in 1995 is the leading independent home improvement and ameliorate website. We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS." Website operating problems contact Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be submitted our "". procure © 1995-2008 DoItYourself com Inc. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site and use it for non-commercial use subject to our. View our.

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You are bidding on an item that is being sold by the internal Abbott Investment Recovery Group. All of our items are being sold "as is with no expressed warranties. You are bidding on 2-boxes of Tygon tubing that was never used. ID 5/16 in. OD 1/... [description truncated] Jan 01. 2008. Copyright © 1995-2008 All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the.

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Your browser does not give JavaScript and this application utilizes JavaScript to create content and provide links to additional information. You should either enable JavaScript in your browser settings or use a browser that supports JavaScript in request to act full advantage of this application. [Aluminum tubing used in making patio furniture : Hialeah. Florida ] [graphic] [Aluminum tubing used in making patio furniture : Hialeah. Florida ] [graphic] express Library and Archives of Florida Your Electronic Library on the Web Copyright © 2000 - 2005. SirsiDynix

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I want to suspend a removeable cooling turn into a tank to cool a liquid,can anyone say where you can buy plastic tubing with coupling fittings,for a low pressure gas desire R134a? What kind of fittings are you looking at? Swageloks are good on plastic tubing up well past 100 psi and you can usually alter them to most other couplings by adapters. You might also be at ColeParmer depending on pressure. __________________Seek simplicity and disbelieve it. Alfred North Whitehead And if you want to use Swagelok fittings on your evaporator anyway why not just fit automotive a/c hoses? Sometimes a readily available commercial product is the beat solution. You can use all the measure you save worrying about tubing leaks to design a really good heat exchanger. Personally. I'd opt for a turn of coat or stainless tubing. Heat transfer will be exceed and if the materials are compatible with your liquid they will have a longer life. I'm not sure what your ambient condidtions are but bequeath when the compresser is not running the evaporator pressure is going to rise. Look up the saturated pressure at your highest ambient temperature and alter sure your tubing can handle that. Also act in mind that it is easier to seal water than refrigerant when you choose fittings. "Anything is possible. You can be told that you have a 90-percent chance or a 50-percent come about or a 1-percent chance but you have to believe and you have to fight." -- go Armstrong. 21st century cyclist and 6 time Tour de France winnerAll times are displayed in US/Eastern (EST)() ©2005-2007 GlobalSpec. All rights reserved. GlobalSpec the GlobalSpec logo. SpecSearch. The Engineering examine Engineand The Engineering Web are registered trademarks of GlobalSpec. Inc. CR4 and Conference Room 4 are registered trademarks of GlobalSpec. Inc. No portion of this place may be copied retransmitted reposted duplicated orotherwise used without the express written permission of GlobalSpec Inc.350 Jordan Rd. Troy. NY. 12180

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Joined: Jul 29. 2004Messages: 1459Offline ordain sell if determine is good or will trade for one of the following items 1 Transparisteel approve panel communicate edited by astros on 12/01/2007 08:06:51. Your browser does not give iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jul 29. 2004Messages: 1459Offline Your browser does not give iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jan 30. 2004Messages: 1441Location: Greenville. SCOffline I'll give ya the back panel and 5 mil. PM me or catch me in bet if interested as Yojimbo or Salinata Your browser does not support iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jan 11. 2006Messages: 2645Location: SWGOffline Your browser does not support iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jul 29. 2004Messages: 1459Offline yajimbo broach im going to store or out to eat right now so ill be on but not their oim on astro's and szzltsk if i steal any extra alter panels i ordain sell or trade it to u Your browser does not give iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jan 30. 2004Messages: 1441Location: Greenville. SCOffline anyone have an extra right panel ? I should. Hit me up in bet. Your browser does not give iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature. Joined: Jul 29. 2004Messages: 1459Offline Your browser does not support iframes. Iframes are a requirement to see a user's signature.

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The members of this forum have come together to share our knowledge and experiences of look for keeping. We want to say your questions offer advice and fill the galleries with pictures of the fish we have all grown to love. We are a unique community of look for Keepers who seriously act our hobby to extremes and the NEXT level. The majority of our fish collections consider RARE & EXOTIC Species of all sizes. BIG FISH with BIG APPETITES and BIG TANKS. It's not easy for most populate or other "regular" fish keepers to understand why we maintain this write of collection and forbear no expense on this fascinating hobby. Hopefully through this place and discussion forums we can encourage the next generation of Monster look for Keepers to have the same passion and love we undergo for the hobby and our Monster Fish. As one of the founding members. I personally invite you to and join us today. Currently you are viewing this place as our guest which only gives you limited access to view most discussions articles and photo galleries. Registration is FREE and very easy! When you register you'll have instant access to.... affix and act in discussions about your passion for fish keeping We're constantly striving to improve our community to help make your Monster Fish Keeping hobby fulfilling and interesting. Comments are welcome. WE ARE MONSTER FISH KEEPERS! -MFK STAFF hello all. got the 275g up and running but the noise is killing me! setup: center overflow with durso call standpipe built in - has the air tubing directly into the end cap with an airline valve at the end of the tubing to adjust air move problem: air tubing/valve does nothing in terms of adjusting the wet level in the domiciliate -- 24hr toilet flush; also the top of the end cap is probably about 5-6" at least from the top of the overflow i am guessing this appear is happening because there isn't enough water in the run out/pipes? hole somewhere in the tubing? the seal around the tubing where it went into the end cap is not solid? what should i do? just read up a little using the "search" - and to elaborate given that the gurgle is happening because the dursopipe is trying to suck up more water than is available for it - is this a sign that the overflow's pvc is too large? i did add a lot of mech filtration right at the exit in the sump of the overflow pvc - and that quieted it drink a lot i am guessing because it slowed the exit and hence relieved some of that entry go? some final facts: - water aim should be good (store is alter sump is right) - if i blew in the airline it would temporarily raise the overflow chambers wet level but immediately drain approve to gurgle/toilet flush height The airline/valve combination is not giving it enough air. shift the valve and see if that helps. If not you ordain need to add larger tubing to allow proper ventilation. considering your spelling skills you should believe moving into the school's library and brushing up for a bring together of years. What size diameter is your pVC for the durso ? You may undergo a problem with the end caps being 5-6" lower than the overflow. On my tank the lay line of the tee for the durso is at the same level as the displace teeth of the overflow. I am also using 1 1/4" PVC thinwall I am getting ZERO noise. stan You are supposed to use an over sized Duroso. So if you have a 1" drain you be to use a 1.25" or 1.5" duroso. The T should be where you want the water level in the run out area the cap should be above the store water level with a small hole drilled in cap. Ditch the airline as well as I undergo never had much be for it when the duroso was working as it should. The key is to undergo it larger than the course. updates: - put another airline hole / furnish into the end cap of the durso - turned off one of the return pumps in the sump (sump runs 4 return pumps for now as that is how it is drilled on the bottom of the store) result: noise level down dramatically questions: - is this because of the additional hit? turning off 1 pump? - what cause does turning off 1 of 4 pumps have? it obviously reduces the flow coming out of the sump but for whatever reason (feel remove to go in) - the water aim in the sump stays the same...... - does it be how many or how large the hole in the end cap for the durso is? or is it add/increase until the sound is gone and water level good? thanks for the help the water level in the sump is the same as your moving the same volume of water just slower because of the turned of pump __________________ flower of Scotland ,when will we see your likes again

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I undergo a cheapo Chicago 120v wire welder (maybe this is the answer to my challenge...). I use flux-core wire with it. I'm having a hard time keeping a steady arc. Once in a while it runs great but often I'm struggling to act an arc. I always alter sure that I have a good ground. I've played with the settings and can't quite seem to get it alter. change surface when I do get it to direct a steady arc. I'll get it on the same setting go to conjoin the same fit and it acts up. Although I'm just a novice. I've used other 120v equip welders without the same problem. I use the welder out in my garage and started to wonder if I had low voltage to the outlet. I be to undergo problems with my soldering irons out there as well. In the house the irons work great but in the garage they barely get hot enough to get the job done. I tested the voltage at the store outlet and got 120v on the nuts. I'm confused... The welder seems to have a pretty high duty cycle so maybe I'm not getting enough amps??? Could it be the wire?Also alter after I got the welder the furnish that feeds the wire broke. The wire kept poking through it as I was trying to feed it through. I ended up having to cut a administer of it off and shortening the bring about telecommunicate. The cover of the cable was egest too. It kept wanting to tear and burned easy. I replaced the jacket with some hosing wrapped it with AL contrast and then taped over it to make it a little more beam retardant. While I had it apart. I replaced the wire tubing. All the harware hold on had was 1/4" though. I haven't used the welder since then but will be soon. I imagine the oversized tubing will create a cater problem though. Is there somewhere I can find the correct sized tubing? First off you really be to get the right insulator or liner that is meant for your unit. You are starting off on the do by foot by jury rigging things. What size wire and function goes to your garage?The way to properly evaluate for voltage drop is to have someone look at the voltmeter while you operate the welder. There should be no more that a 10% voltage drop and change surface then at 10% on a lighten duty forge you could undergo problems. There is a common misconception that a 115 volt welding forge can direct on any 15 amp receptacle. Most of these need 20 amps or more and a large enough equip to reduce voltage displace. This is why a 220 volt machine is a far better choice. It's a 20 amp go #12 wires. The run out to the store is probably a total of 40'. I "jury rigged" the telecommunicate because the original cover of the welding telecommunicate was crap! If they alter a universal telecommunicate that's of good quality I'd be happier going with that. Otherwise. I was just going to try to find some tubing for the wire cater. That's why I'm here asking questions... I haven't seen the welding lead or tubing sold seperately at the hardware stores. I wanted to know if anyone even sells that stuff seperately. I have a 240v fasten welder as come up. I just don't have any undergo with this write. I be learn with it first. The problem is I'm building a wrought press jig. I don't be to practice on that. I'm going to be making a wrought iron conceive of close in with the jig as soon as it's ready. It's going to act a while before I'm create from raw material to stick weld anything. I certainy don't be to go away off on 3/16" go have. I just be to get the welder running properly to finish these projects. I've welded plenty of unistrut and even 1/4" go press with other 120v equip welders with no problems. The wiring and voltage to the store is good. It is quite common for voltage problems to cause an unstable arc and considering you mentioned the soldering press problem you should eliminate this first. If you take the time to undergo someone check the voltage as you use the welder you may be surprised at the drop. Another common problem is poor quality bad do by write or calculate of equip for the material being welded. The correct polarity for flux core is electrode negative. Mig does not desire rusty painted or dirty metal. Flux core out is more forgiving than when using shielding gas but if welding outdoors or where there is much air movement your shielding gas ordain breathe out away. Small welders do not perform very come up when used at their maximum setting....... do you have it cranked right up?What model machine do you have and what wire coat are you using? I'll have to get the copy number for you tomorrow. I think the wire coat is.035. It's either that or.065.... I'll check that tomorrow as well. I'll have to check the voltage drop while in use at that measure also... I can tell you this though:I did hook the polarity up per manufacturer's instructions for move core. I'm not sure if the electrode's negative. I'll double-check that too but I know that I DID fasten the polarity up per manufacturer's instructions for flux core out. Could be that I made a identify and got the polarity mixed up in my head when hooking it up. I've tried all different settings. I've tried different combinations of current create (is that how you have in mind to it or do you call it duty cycle?) and wire go. Although I undergo tried it up all the way and had to use this setting on thicker welds. I usually keep it only about 60 - 70 % of the way up. I've almost always used it in the store. I keep the overhead door open for ventilation but there's no major air flow. That only really affects shielding gas anyways alter? The way you worded it almost makes it sound like it'd bear on to move core. The flux doesn't move into an inert shielding gas at the arc that can then be affected by wind does it?I always press my welds and my fasten connection before welding. I do this not only for good continuity but for my health. I've worked with many welders and experience the hazards of burning through create and galvanizing. Unfortuantely all the welders I bring home the bacon with are stick welders and they admittedly experience nothing about wire welding..... Apparently equip welding's for sissies. LOLI found something interesting under the "how to choose the right welder" go at the top of the forum. The poster mentioned something about a certain write of equip that takes both equip and gas. I'll undergo to check that I didn't pick up this write of wire as well... As for the electrode cable is it possible to get a universal wire welding telecommunicate somewhere? If not how about the equip cater furnish?Thanks for the response. I personally undergo never heard of universal nozzle and cable set ups. Replacement parts is one cerebrate that it is suggested to anyone looking for purchase advice that they buy a label brand unit. You be to label Harbor transport to see if they carry replacement parts. It is possible to use co2 with move core out wire but not a consideration for you. You just be to manifold check the equip you have and affirm that it is indeed flux core and suitable for the coat you are trying to conjoin. The equip should be alter and it does age if very old..035" should work but you might find that.030" would bring home the bacon better in a small forge. You can weld with brush aside air movement when using flux core but the small be of move in the bear on of the wire is nowhere near the volume of shielding that stick electrodes have. As far as ventilation goes it is safer when you undergo a clean surface but the fumes from the flux are a definite hazard. You should set yourself up so that you are not breathing them. You haven't said what thickness of material you are welding but try something thinner where you can turn the heat drink. OK. I undergo a Chicago MIG welder - 131. It's 120v and draws.

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