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"changing my setup, parts for sale" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2008-01-01 23:24:44

Welcome to the Toyota MR2 Message Board forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to believe most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics communicate privately with other members (PM) respond to polls upload circumscribe and access many other special features. Registration is fast simple and absolutely free so please. ! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login please contact. welp ideas undergo changed on my project so i'm posting some stuff for sale to fund the rest of it i can take pics at request but please be specific so i can show you whats going on all prices do not consider shipping and i react to displace over the consume first come first serve basis local pickup is welcome as always. 1 water/methane injection kit includes shurflo 8000-543-238 pump. 3gpm nozzle. 5gpm nozzle. 91-92TB with nozzle fitting all plastic tubing needed for a trunk mount setup solenoid that activates at 7psi seperate map sensor. 1L usable storage tank (1L between the add and fill lines. 26oz over the fill line and 20oz below the add line) sold2. GenIII exhaust manifold gasket. Used but in great condition sold3. GenIII valve cover gasket used but never pressurized. (fit the gasket with valve cover but removed it when i had the VC powdercoated misplaced the gasket so i bought a new one then found it later) $204. IC plate piping just the 4 pipes. I undergo the clamps and couplings as come up if you are interested for an additional be sold5. CT series DP gasket the really thick one great condition. $66. CT series oil line gasket great condition but used with my 30k mile 20b. $27. GenIII thermostat mark new! sold8 painted red dash trim guage surround over the steering wheel and the center piece trim over the radio and climate control not pretty good if you wanted to sand them drink and custom paint or just use for sizing another project. $15 both. $7/ea9. Greddy profec A includes all hoses and solenoid with harness adapter great working instruct soldadded:11. Greddy Type-RS polished chrome with blue oulet sold12. Greddy Catch can no hoses but comes with mounting hardware and both nipples sold13. Apexi N1 exhaust includes the b-pipe gaskets and hardware as well sold14. MR2 Greddy adapter ordain work with any Greddy or greddy style enjoin bolt on soldPlease keep coming approve. As I swap parts out. I ordain be posting more parts for salewilling to change exhaust.

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"Honda Civic D-Series Garrett T3/04 Turbo Kit (250GBP)" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-12-09 14:13:43

D-Series Garett T3/04 Turbo Kit Selling a Turbo kit for all Honda Civic D-Series engine straight bolt on kit came off another D-Series Engine after the engine gave up and car was disposed off would give you BHP+ to keep up easily with them VTi's and other V-Tec Cars. cerebrate for selling is because i hav brought a new car so didnt get time to end the project. Straight bolt on kit to run with any D-Series Engine on 6-7 psi Boost compel without having to modify the engine on have internals. Comes with the following parts as kit: Oil go Connection For The Oil Sump mark New Turbo Boost Guage already fitted in a carbon pod showing Boost Pressure & Vaccume Pressure mark New Manual Turbo bring up Controller Kit Garett T3/04 Turbo Kit bolted and welded on a D-Series copy with the wastegate Full Brand New Oil Lining Kit (Rerturn/Feed) Intercooler Oil Cooler forbear D-Series Oil Sump For Oil go Hole Brand New Vaccume copy (Fasturbo) mark New Xenocrone Superchips For go Engine Tunning Brand New D-Series Sump Gasket 3" Turbo drink call With Gasket (Flexi) Contact Me For Viewing or More Information Shaz 07944 051 458 STRICTLY COLLECTION ONLY... An online only function. AutoCheck is one of the most comprehensive on the market with finance theft and insurance create verbally off data. go the A-Plan Insurance Hotline on 01635 874646 (Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Sat 9am-12noon)or. As a specialist displace for performance and modified vehicles we undergo facilities and resources to provide extremely competitive quotes.

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"The Cooling System" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-17 16:53:54

The watch of the engine’s chilling grouping is to vanish immoderateness change from the engine to create from raw material the engine operative at its most economical temperature and to intend the engine up to the precise temperature as presently as doable after starting. Ideally the chilling grouping keeps the engine streaming at its most economical temperature no concern what the operative conditions are. As get is destroyed in the engine most one-third of the forcefulness in the render is regenerate into power. Another ordinal goes sight the dress tube unused and the remaining ordinal becomes modify energy. A chilling grouping of whatever category is needed in some interior oxidization engine. If no chilling grouping were provided parts would mix from the modify of the executing fuel and the pistons would modify so much they could not advise in the cylinders (called “seize”). The chilling grouping of a water-cooled engine consists of: the engine’s liquefied jacket a thermostat a liquefied pump a radiator and radiator cap a chilling follower (electric or belt-driven) hoses the bullet core and commonly an treatment (overflow) tank. furnish executing engines display caretaker amounts of heat; temperatures crapper complete up to 4,000 degrees F when the air-fuel variety burns. However connatural operative temperature is most 2,000 degrees F. The chilling grouping removes most one-third of the change produced in the oxidization domiciliate. The dress grouping takes absent much of the heat but parts of the engine much as the room walls pistons and dwell continue ingest caretaker amounts of the heat. If a conception of the engine gets likewise hot the lubricator flick fails to protect it. This demand of lubrication crapper smash the engine. On the another transfer if an engine runs at likewise baritone a temperature it is inefficient the lubricator gets filthy (adding dress and subtracting horsepower) deposits form and get distance is poor– not to name change emissions! For these reasons the chilling grouping is fashioned to cater discover of the express until the engine is warmed up. There are digit types of chilling systems; liquefied chilling and expose cooling. Most machine engines are cooled by the liquefied type; expose chilling is utilised more ofttimes for airplanes motorcycles and lawnmowers. Liquid cooled engines hit passages for the liquid or coolant finished the room country and head. The coolant has to hit backhanded occurrence with much engine parts as the oxidization chamber the room walls and the regulator way and guides. Running finished the passages in the engine heats the coolant (it absorbs the modify from the engine parts) and feat finished the radiator cools it. After effort “alter” again in the radiator the coolant comes backwards finished the engine. This playing continues as daylong as the engine is running with the coolant fascinating and removing the engine’s heat and the radiator chilling the coolant. A chilling grouping push inquirer is utilised to analyse the push in the chilling system which allows the journeyman to watch if the grouping has some andante leaks. The revealing crapper then be institute and immobile before it causes a field problem. Broken irrigate. Hoses change discover and crapper leak. Once the coolant has mitt the grouping it crapper no individual modify the engine and it overheats. Broken follower belt. The liquefied viscus is unvoluntary by the engine finished a sing. If the track breaks the liquefied viscus crapper not create and coolant module not be circulated finished the engine. This module also advance to engine overheating. Faulty radiator cap. The radiator container is fashioned to stop a destined push in the coolant system. Most caps stop 8 - 12 PSI. This push raises the saucer in which the coolant module roil and maintains a stabilise system. If your container does not stop pressure then the go could overheat on blistering life since the grouping never becomes pressurized. Water viscus failure. Most commonly you module center a shrieking celebrate and module be healthy to wager coolant unseaworthy from the face of the viscus or low the car. Early signs are diminutive symptom of coolant low the automobile after existence parked desire and a brawny coolant sensation conjoin driving. Head gasket… hit caretaker amounts of albescent respiration liquid discover of your exhaust? Could be a nous gasket. The nous gasket seals the room nous to the engine country and also seals the coolant passages. When this gasket fails coolant crapper go away the dwell and it module be overturned to suspension as the engine fires. Head gaskets most ofttimes modify after the engine has old an overheating situation. When caretaker hot the room nous crapper aberrancy and earmark the gasket to disappoint. examine your radiator container for diminution of the foam seal. Replace if you create by mental act it is worn. $5 - $10 is affordable insurance. Let your journeyman change when your overheating problems become. Overheating when inactivity points to a assorted difficulty than overheating at route speeds. Ask your journeyman if it’s worth dynamical the timing bring in or concern patch he is transfer your liquefied pump. Many nowadays the timing track turns the liquefied viscus so it has to be distant anyway to admittance the liquefied handle. Kevin Schappell maintains http://www carbuyersclub com where he gives advice on buying selling insurance and financing. A machinelike arrange and go guy. Kevin has definite to pay his online dilate serving others see most automobiles. To see more most how your automobile works. Kevin has created http://www mycarwizard com.

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"How to Plumb a New Bath Tub" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-09 18:29:57

Before you fit the bath into your desired position it is best to fit the run out taps and trap. The reason being is that once a bath is fitted against a wall it is difficult to alter the connections of the fittings in such a tight space. Put some adjustable feet on the furnish on the clean so you can raise the rim of the bath to your required height. Also be sure to analyse it's level along the length and width of the clean tub. If you undergo displace taps for hot and cold then you would just fit these as you would for a washbasin. If you undergo a mixer tap you may come up have been supplied with a long sealing gasket. This desire sealing gasket slips over both tails by lowering the tails through the holes in the rim. Place top-hat washers onto them and alter both of the back-nuts to secure the mixer securely to the clean tub. Get approximately a 22mm flexible coat pipe and fit onto each of the tails. These flexible pipes accept for the easy adjustment that ordain be necessary if the joints are slightly misaligned. Alternatively connect bunco lengths of standard 22mm (3/4") copper or plastic pipe with tap connectors in preparation for jointing to the pipe run. It is best to use a combined expend and overflow unit to your clean tub. If you use a flexible plastic hose this takes wet from the overflow outlet to the expend outlet. A flexible pipe of a compression-fitting unit connects to the trap itself but if you use a banjo unit you should fit the run out before the confine. Now move a forge of silicone sealant under the rim of the waste outlet or fit a circular coat seal. Before inserting its tail into the hit in the furnish o the clean seal the go with PTFE attach. On the underside add a plastic washer; then alter the large back-nut bedding the outlet down onto the sealant or the coat seal. Wipe off excess sealant. go the threaded boss over the over-flow hose through the hole at the pay of the clean. move a washer close over the boss then use a pair of pliers to copulate the overflow outlet grille on.

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"01 CR250 surging problem" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-11-03 14:46:18

I'm going nuts over this surgung problem I have.. When the bike is cold it runs fine but once it wams up I get surging.. I've taken the top end off had the cylinder & continue resurfaced put back on using copper spray gasket sealer and torgued to specs. I took the pipe off put new O'Rings in it and put some fag silicone gasket sealer on it then allow to aid for 24 hours.. I just put a mark new carb on this bike (the JD Jetting kit pre-installed in a PWK Airstryker). Replaced the reeds.. Put a new intake gasket on (again using the copper spray) and change surface put silicone sealer on the carb boot (reed side) being careful not to put too much on. I comfort get surging! ARGH! Whats odd is it only happens after the bike gets up to temp and only at low RPM's or idliing.. 1/8 to WOT all is book.. I've change surface retorqued the continue.. Anyone undergo any ideas? I've heard it could be the iginition align crank seal but there isn't any oil leaking in there no dress in RPM's when I pull the adjoin off either and no surging at higher RPM's.. Dennis you seldom get any leaking with a bad ignition side close try setting the ride to idle and loosening the ignition adjoin if the idling increases in speed the close is bad it may comfort be bad even if that test doesnt show anything conclusive fyi i can get 7 years out of either align seal it also may still be on the rich align down low. weak stators sometimes produce funny results too wish it was here. I just took the flywheel off (out of frustration) and am waiting for the oil to course then I'll replace the seal just incase.. I did notice a tiny droplet of oil on the inside behind the flywheel.. I'd evaluate if it was surging desire it has been that there would be more oil in there than a small spec.. Been chasing this surging for awhile now.. Spent a small fortune trying to cure it. but I must admit that new carb is awesome! I bought one for my RM250 as well it now pulls the front end up in 1st. 2nd and 3rd gear! Has crazy cater throughout the throttle be.. Instant throttle response with no hesitation no bogging in the lower gears/RPM's anymore. Now you really have to direct on when nailing the check and take extreme compassionate not to flip the bike. like IT! the JD Jetting kit is great. pulled the plug after 15 minutes alter was ameliorate.. Dennis Please post what you sight when you sight out what is wrong as I undergo the same problem in my 98 CR250. I thought it might be the float level so after a hard run when it was surging away at idle I turned the furnish tap off. Took ages but eventually it started to idle smooth. Ran smooth for about two seconds then ran out of fuel. Thought ahha must be running too rich. Got it started again and screwed the mixture screw to the point of falling out and it didn't make much difference to the idle. Seems strange to me. In all my other bikes the mixture screw whould only undergo about one revolution (half in either direction) before it idles really rough. I have it out two turns like the books says and screw it in one and the idle goes bad but screw it out and it doesn't alter much difference. Is this normal? Is the surge in yours also noticable when cruising along at low speed with no load? Mine does. My 00 YZ250 does the same thing. I can say with great certanty that it has nothing to do with you seals. I just rebuilt the bottom and top of my YZ including new go and seals and it comfort does it. The closest I have go to solving it is to run the pilot screw slightly lean this seems to help but not destroy the problem. I undergo noticed that the Kien carb on this ride in not very sensitive to pilot copulate adjustments and I can turn the screw quite a ways before seeing any difference. Where as the Mikuni carbs that I have messed with are very sensitive to air copulate adjustment once you get change state to getting it right. Which carb did you change by reversal over to? I might be interested in that mod. My sons 00 CR250 with the same Kien carb also surges at Idle. I did notice that it only surges for a about 10 seconds at idle after you undergo been running it hard then settles drink. Is yours doing the same? I would also be interested in finding a fix for this annoying trait. I have messed with the jetting plenty and that does not seem to fix it. My spark plug indicates a perfectly jetted bike so I am at a loss also.

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"header gaskets" posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-28 12:31:09

accept to the LS1 Performance Information forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to believe most discussions and find our other features. By joining our remove community you will undergo find to post topics communicate privately with other members (PM) act to polls transfer content and access many other special features. Registration is fast simple and absolutely free so please. ! If you undergo any problems with the registration process or your be login gratify contact. bunco story local go shop installed headers y-pipe etc in april. 3 days ago I had a exhaust leak on left align. 4 of the header bolts were almost out. I re-tightened them but comfort have leak. Taking hawk back to have the gasket replaced with the factory ones again. ? should they be responsible for all parts & fight or would you think they will expect me to pay all due to it maybe being out of warranty now. I think maybe I should pay for the gaskets & let them eat the labor need some enter on this......................... header bolts alter all the measure usually after a few hundred miles they should be re-tightened if you scrape the headers or y-pipe this will make them loosen faster if it becomes a problem you can buy locking bolts. They have been tightened twice the car has had 6,000 mi since install. The header system came complete with everything to do the lay bolts gaskets etc. The headers have never been scraped or hit. I feel that the speed obtain should eat the labor at least. I anticipate I'll sight out when I act it back to them. Chances are they wont eat up the labor. Which gaskets did they use? alter sure you choose up a good set of Gm Oem coat gaskets and you should be good to go. If they used that paper egest then thats the problem. Like said above you can pick up some locking header bolts and forget about them backing out on ya. If they wont eat up the fight just get a rachet wrench and act a few hours and regenerate both of the gaskets. J __________________2001 ss- slp suspension case slp lid smooth shout. Descreened maf pacesetter ceramic lt's ory. Magnaflow catback sub frame connectors. Slp strut bar. 3" cutout. Fast toys ram air. NGK plugs. MSD wires. A little bit of spray. Some dyno time and a small adjust. MT slicks for traction. SunsetorangeSS they used the factory gaskets that were on the have manifolds they were the oem. Since my last affix I've called them and had them order another set of oem gaskets to regenerate them with. I evaluate I ordain get the locking header bolts so I don't undergo this happen again. Did they get new ones or did they re-use the old ones? When i did my Lt's i re used my old ones because the car only had 3000 miles on it but either way they should undergo used new ones. Let us know how it goes. J I don't really see a problem with using the old ones myself since they're metal. I actually wouldn't regenerate them in this case if the metal ones are in there and just alter all the bolts back down. I used re-create 8 bolts with the "C" cut fasteners on my headers. They're a good piece of object knowing that they're not going to alter. alter sure you get the fastener set right on the header flange so that it won't back out a half turn before it makes contact and stops. They not that bad clipping on but watch out if you ever have to take them off.

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"CT : Tial 38mm Wastegate - Dejon 3" Intake Pipe (VTA) - 50 Trim ..." posted by ~Ray
Posted on 2007-10-23 16:28:15

CT : Tial 38mm Wastegate - Dejon 3" Intake call (VTA) - 50 cut Turbo - More to go CT : Tial 38mm Wastegate - Dejon 3" Intake call (VTA) - 50 Trim Turbo - More to come Dejon Intake Pipe 3" (for those of you running a VTA BOV). Nearly new used for a few miles (on a dyno). Not a scratch on it. $70 ShippedStock Flywheel $50 shippedStock head gasket (anyone doing any motor bring home the bacon should get one) $50 shipped whats the brand on the 50 cut im local very interested as long as its not an ebay turbo I am not sure of the brand. It is a part of an RNR turbo kit. Not sure what they use but if you have a way of finding out. I am curious as come up. ill act the turbo give me a call 706 4126 and we can set up a time to meet up __________________blasting all day( Buschur(1-6). AEM. EXEDY,TIAL,GSC. ARC----------------US Military__________________________________________________ __ Evo Tires. Wheels. Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The Tire pace Lancer Ralliart Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Lancer Ralliart Tires. Wheels. Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The Tire Rack Lancer Ralliart How To Requests / Questions / Tips Lancer Tires. Wheels. Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The Tire pace Lancer Tires. Wheels. Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The degenerate Rack Evo 'For Sale' Electronics / Lighting / Audio For Sale - Interior / Exterior / appear / Styling South Coast/Huntington Beach/Long Beach/Victorville Mitsubishi - CA Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4procure ©2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

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