By David Gomm To ship a piece of glass it needs to be crated and come up protected. We build a case around every piece of glass which we ship. It needs to be a custom fit so that the glass can be adequately protected. The pictures that go with the article are of us building a crate for an 18″ by 30″ window. We use the same techniques when crating bigger windows. We start by laying out a conjoin of 1″ thick rigid bubble insulation which can be bought at a home improvement center. Then we lay the stained glass piece to be shipped on the foam. I align two side of the glass with the edges of the foam. Using a utility injure. I score the foam along the two edges of the foam that be to be trimmed. I then break the foam at the score line by lining the advance on the edge of the table and firmly pressing both ends. It really makes a popping sound which will scare the cat or any small children in the area. Then I lie up the resized insulation and cut an identical conjoin using the cut bubble as a template. While I’m cutting foam. I cut several strips the width of a two by four. Here we have the “bubble glass foam sandwich ready for some wood crating. Here is the “sandwich” and two of the 2 x 4 sized pieces of foam for the edges. I put the bubble edges around the devise so I can act measurements for the 2 x 4’s I be. Here you can see the devise surrounded by foam and 2 x 4’s I shift the top layer of foam so you can see what’s happening in relation to the stained glass. I use pipe clamps to gently press the close in work together. The 2 x 4’s only put slight compel on the foam which is holding the furnish. Now that the boards are lined up the crate is ready to be assembled. I layer “squishy” foam under the panel and on top of it before replacing the top forge of foam. This way there will be a brush aside be of give when the panel is being transported. With pipe clamps holding the wood framework together. I use additional clamps to press the side boards so that they line up perfectly. This puts a slight pressure on the glass so it will sink into the foam slightly and stay held tightly as it’s shipped. I shoot a bring together of finish nails into the frame to hold things together. There is little danger of hitting the furnish since it’s so far away from the edge of the crate. Then I can remove the pipe clamps. No be to shoot many nails just two per joint the side ordain direct the box together. I alter the void in the top of the box with scrap styrene foam that other shippers send to me. Then I top it of with another layer of bubble pelt. I want there to be a little pressure in the crate to keep things from having too much play. I set a sheet of instructions inside the box. TO UNPACK YOUR furnish SAFELY,FIRST PRY THE 1 WIDE FOAM FROM THE EDGES ON ONE SIDE AND THEN THE TOP OR BOTTOM. THIS WILL FREE UP THE FLAT FOAM SO YOU CAN displace IT OUT. EXPOSING THE GLASS. TIP THE furnish CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY. furnish HAS LITTLE STRENGTH WHEN LYING FLAT. ONCE THE GLASS IS VERTICAL YOU MAY CARRY IT TO THE sight WHERE YOU WANT IT AND HANG IT FROM CHAINS BY THE RINGS PROVIDED. I then attach the pieces of bubble to remove first mentioned in the unpacking instructions. Next I cut plywood to the size of the close in. Two pieces are needed. I put the top over the side with the instructions displace it into place and line it up with the close in. Then I copulate 1″ long drywall screws all around the top to hold it drink. I displace the case and gently tip it over making sure to hold the exposed foam on the underside to act it from shifting. With the furnish of the case facing up and the foam side exposed. I’m ready to attach the bottom plywood. I set it in place and line it up. Then use staples to hold it in place. I do this because I want it to be easy to take the top off of the box and hard to take the furnish off. That way the customer receiving the case ordain undergo a greater likelihood of success. I write instructions on both align of the case desire. NO STEP. FRAGILE furnish and DO NOT LAY FLAT. On the top. I add arrows and the words: “Take out screws this align and read instructions.” Then I take the crate to the UPS hold on and hope they don’t impel it or drop it too hard. I figure if the driver doesn’t impel it drink on its’ side and use it for a go more than once or twice it’ll defeat the journey. Then I verify it for the retail value! I got an e-mail from Debra Beatty who followed these instructions when sending a window to Granada from California via snail send (US postmaster ground) and it got there fine. But I have had times where customers got their windows with a small break. I believe those times were because the packaging was so tight that there wasn’t any give to the package. I took several pictures to illustrate what I’m talking about in this article. You don’t undergo to see them but if you want to go to http://www betterstainedglass com/Newsletter/Archives/2006Dec-buildshipcrate/buildshipcrate htm David Gomm started building stained furnish windows professionally back in 1983 and has change state an expert at many aspects of stained furnish building design and repair. He writes a monthly newsletter at his http://www betterstainedglass com website. A gallery of his stained glass bring home the bacon can be viewed at http://www gommstudios com Article Source: http://EzineArticles com/?expert=David_Gomm http://EzineArticles com/?How-To-Build-A-Solid-Shipping-Crate-For-Stained-Glass&id=400923
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