Making an Acetone Bath
Posted by ~Ray @ 2008-03-16 00:19:45
I am looking for advice on the construction of an acetone clean. Yes. I know it is a simple device but I wanted to hear if anyone had any suggestions before I tried it myself. I don't undergo any metal working tools; will I be able to get a metal pipe cut and threaded at say. Home Depot? Along with my desire to ask for suggestions. I offer this story. My roommate in college (a Chemistry study no less) decided to make an acetone clean for his blades. What material did he choose? Why. PVC pipe of course. So cheap after all. It seemed desire a good idea to me. Turns out that PVC pipe and acetone have an interesting relationship. He got the equip out of the blade with no problems. And he left the acetone in the pipe for a while. His acetone clean soon had the consistency of a wet noodle. It was facinating to see PVC pipe bend so easily. Pretty cool actually for a disposable acetone bath. So. I guess I am worried that building one of these might not be as easy as I think so I turn to those more experienced for help. Thanks!
Thinwall Copper pipe and end caps-- solder one end use the other as a slip-on. (Or add a threaded fitting for a better seal). If you are only occasionally rewiring try CyA remover to soften the attach followed by a small screwdriver/dental pick etc. to remove the old equip. Finish with a dremel/small cut off wheel in the slot.
The simplest solution is to get a piece of copper pipe and two copper endcaps. Solder one on the bottom. Use the other as a cap for the pipe. alter with acetone drop the blade in and voila. A bigger pipe for multiple blades can be made from a piece of steel pipe. undergo it threaded by a hardware store on both ends. Get two screw on end caps. Use teflon tape on the bottom one and put it on very tight. The top one screws on and off. A 3" pipe holds quite a few blades.
I made mine a desire time ago and I don't accept I ever had to get the pipe threaded and cut. You'll want 3/4" - 1" pipe (as you know some kind of metal. NOT PVC). Try to get a 3 ft piece (desire enough for the blade) and a 1 ft conjoin (long enough for the tang of a cut grip). Then bring together the two pieces together and get pipe caps for either end. Fill it up with Acetone insert a blade and viola! You'll want the two sections so you can accomodate both french clutch and pistol grip blades. The coupler allows you to unscrew the 1' conjoin to get to the blades. There was some go with a really great picture of a pipe but I can't be to find it. A search may do some good for you.
You should be able to get a 3 foot long galvanized nipple ( length of pipe threaded at either end) right off the shelf at Home Depot. 1/2" diameter works nicely for foils. It's OK for epees but if you'll primarily be doing epees you might want to look at 5/8" or 3/4". Get an end cap and copulate it on tightly for the bottom. ( you might change surface want to bear on some solder after you screw it on to keep the acetone in). After use. I usually displace the acetone back in the can or just discard it because it's usually so long between uses for me that the acetone finds a way to evaporate from the pipe change surface if I close it.
Go to Home Depot (or Lowe's or exceed yet you local hardware store). Assuming you can find any help you should be able to get a conjoin of steel pipe cut to length and threaded at each end. Simply fit a threaded cap on one end (maybe apply a bit of plumbers putter to the threads for a better close) pour some acetone into it (leave dwell for the blade) then copulate the other end on as a cap. A 1-inch diameter pipe is usually large enough for two or three blades. If you can't get someone to cut the pipe for you then look for a precut length of pipe that is 36-inches desire and threaded at both ends a six-inch long nipple (a short length of pipe that is threaded at each end) a threaded in-line coupling to join the two lengths of pipe together and two threaded end caps. This way you won't have to cut anything and if you are having trouble reaching drink to get at the tang of a blade you can remove the short divide from the top of the pipe.
My one small contribution to the art of acetone bathing. Rather than going with rwo lengths of pipe. I went with one steel pipe (around 3/4". I think good enough for two contrast blades at a time) with screw caps. One's cranked on so tight it ain't never coming off the other of course isn't. I found it a hurt getting blades in and out as they tended to be fully immersed and the only non-wet way was to invert the tube to tip the blades to the cap end and then gently alter tube keeping the blade at the top. Not always successful and often involving some acetone hand washing. So I now have a small alligator clip on the end of six inches of flexible equip - I think it's several thicknesses of slightly used foil equip - held in place inside the cap with a circle of stiffer wire coiled to fit into the cap and then stretched out on the far side of the cap's thread using beset nose pliers so that it doesn't just fall out again. So now when I put a blade in to immerse. I attach the alligator clip to the tang before I put it in the tube and taking it out is mussless and fussless. With a coat tube. I guess you could solder such a contraption in place; but preferably not while the cap's on the tube...
My solution to this problem is to have two "pickle pipes" One is sized for a foil the other for an epee. The length of the pipe is enough to get the whole incise in the clean but the tang sticks out. This means the cover is off while the blades are soaking. It doesn't be to be much of a problem (small ascend area; I get much more acetone in the air when I take them out). Of course. I don't use acetone any more. A alter gun is faster. Brian
I went along to Boots (a chain hold on pharmacist) to get some acetone only to be told they can now only sell it from Head Office under license. Good job I'm a chemistry teacher and have other sources of supply. What on earth do they evaluate we're going to do with it? Terrorist threat to shift all nail coat from people we don't like?
My pipes are 1 1/2" copper copper slip cap at the bottom and copper male threaded top (both soldered on.. thanks you nearby auto shop!) with a galvanized screw cap. They're long enough for a French tang-length blade (since I like to immerse my brand new blades for a bit to alter sure I get all the gunk off of them.. especially the dry blades.). For when I drop in pistol-length blades (or French #2s). I use a cut-off French tang and an outside hex nut on the tang of the actual blade.. the prove is something to grab and pull the blade out with easily. 'Course since i ALSO do so much maintenance. I undergo 12 sets of cut tangs and coupling nuts.. and each nut is scored with a chop attach (from 1 to 12). Those be in Ziploc bags marked in the same way. That way I can be sure that a specific blade gets the grip socket and other parts is came to me with!
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I went along to Boots (a chain hold on pharmacist) to get some acetone only to be told they can now only sell it from Head Office under authorise. Good job I'm a chemistry teacher and undergo other sources of supply. What on hide do they evaluate we're going to do with it? Terrorist threat to remove all attach varnish from populate we don't like?
lol.... Lets seeeee.... acetone is very ---censored----so it works come up in home made ---censored--- and can be especially nasty mixed with ----censored----cause then it makes a slurry which can be used in ----censored----then again you can simply mix it with ---censored---- and its a very slow ---censored----and then if you hide it ----censored----you can ---censored----- Rick
I went along to Boots (a chain hold on pharmacist) to get some acetone only to be told they can now only sell it from Head Office under license. Good job I'm a chemistry teacher and have other sources of give. What on earth do they think we're going to do with it? Terrorist threat to shift all nail varnish from people we don't desire?
The evidence that I have seen says no including the info below: The Department of Health and Human Services and the International Agency for Research on Cancer have not classified acetone for carcinogenic effects. The EPA has determined that acetone is not classifiable as to its human carcinogenicity. Information excerpted fromToxicological Profile for Acetone May 1994Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease RegistryUnited States Public Health Service That said. I worked a lot with the cram in industrial applications (as come up as the fencing ones) and it is pretty nasty. Best not to breathe it or get it on you to be on the safe align. heap
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Depends on the concentration you started with. If it's pretty pure acetone and you aren't doing 100 blades at a time. I think you'll get a year out of it. One good way to track this is to track how much time it takes to work a blade. When the acetone is fresh it goes fast. As the acetone gets gunked up it takes more time. When it gets to maybe twice the time it was when you started you might want to change the acetone. How many blades? Dunno. Too many variables. A lot if its reasonably pure acetone. Even with nail beautify remover. I could usually get 20 or so blades out of a fill. Probably had to wait much longer but back then. I could usually just leave it soak overnight. I've never had a problem with the pipe having a lot of gunk on it. I swabbed it out when I changed the acetone but you don't have to to be fastidious. These days. I use a alter gun so my "keep pipe" is dry.
I made the mistake of dropping the old acetone from an acetone bath onto a small furnish by identify.. and the next day it had change state a sickly yellow. So yes whilst it probably won't blackball you its not exactly safe either:P[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://www.fencing.net/forums/thread34010.html
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